It is not so clear for documentation purposes, but grammar rules are in between 850-4988 lines.
File/Line size does not tell much about Grammar complexity, but anyway, the whole parse.y file is bigger than cpython/Parser directory. BTW, Ruby's parse.y file is just the input to Bison.
When he says the complex grammar is a barrier to entry for implementation I think he is referring not to the difficulty of writing code in Ruby, but to the difficulty of writing a Ruby interpreter.