I have to admit, I’d be curious to visit one of these restaurants myself. However, one has to be aware of the fact that these restaurants are reportedly linked to the secretive North Korean party organization, Room 39 [1], which means that all revenue flows directly into the hands of the Kim dynasty, so in the best case you'll help financing their next BMW or much worse, the nuclear arms program—neither of these I'm very comfortable with…
After a quick search, I found there are North Korean restaurants in Seoul owned by escapees. Definitely a way to learn about the oppressed North Korean people shut away from the rest of the world without supporting their messed up leaders.
Going by my dad's constant repair bills for his BMW, saddling the North Korean regime with those could be good for diverting funds away from their more unsavory endeavors.
I didn’t see the price mentioned in the article, but given that most restaurants are barely getting by, are we sure they’re really making meaningful money off this place (much less weapons money)? I wonder if it’s more for covert activities.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Room_39