Surprisingly my experience of GitLab is even worse! How's yours? BitBucket wasn't much better from memory either. Seems like most commercial offerings in this spaces suck.
I've been using Sourcehut. I respect Drew's commitment to open source, but I think that a lot of the UX misses the mark. For most things I really don't want an email based work flow and some pieces feel a bit disjointed. Overall though it has most of the features I want, and dramatically less bullshit than Github.