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The router instructions make no sense to me.

Why plunge a router and then switch to a jigsaw to make a large circular hole in a sheet of plywood? Just move the router around instead.

You can use a bit that can follow a template to make this as accurate as you'd like, but freehand is usually sufficient.

Also: A notable omission in the "other powertools" section is the angle grinder. Both to "saw" a hole, and by attaching a drill chuck to the grinder. At that point it's basically an electric drill with another form factor.



The router won’t cut as quickly, especially with thicker materials. You absolutely can, though.


This is the correct answer, and router bits are quite the expensive piece of equipment; jigsaw blades are cheap.

https://www.rockler.com/power-tools/routers/router-bits


You can splurge on router bits, but I've also got a set of perfectly usable 12mm bits from AliExpress that I've even used for hardwood, and which will be just fine for any plywood.

You can also spend a lot of money on drill bits if you're seeking perfection over the perfectly adequate.


So, those router bits from Ali are likely to have a few concerns:

- Lower quality metal, meaning they need to be sharpened more often.

- Looser tolerances, more vibration for you/the router to compensate for, and a lower quality finish.

- Consistency between blades will be low.

Perfectly adequate is ok for low frequency and low expectations, but not for anyone expecting high output or high expectations.


As far as I can tell, router bits from AliExpress use the same sort of carbide as the 10-20x more expensive ones available from retail shops here in NZ, and they're cheap enough I wouldn't even consider having them sharpened. We're talking a few dollars for a straight bit, maybe low teens dollars for something fancier.

Never noticed vibration issues with router bits from AliExpress, though I do use a 1/2" router and don't tend to use huge bits so it would have to be pretty far out of whack to make a difference. Same for tolerance. That said, I also wouldn't reach for a power tool as the last step to a very nice surface finish or very high precision fit.


Carbide alloy quality is probably hard to tell by eye. Also hard to tell by eye, and a little scarier, is how well they're adhered to the bit head.

I also use cheap router bits on occasion, but the second one misbehaves even slightly I go ahead and buy an Amana or similarly high-end one, because obviously I've used it enough for it to be worth it.


I'm basing my statement on how the bits function in actual use; for me the cheapies are plenty adequate and the types I need are available, so far there's been no reason to consider buying high-end ones.

Yes, anecdote, but I also have some not-cheapies that came with used tools, inherited from woodworker family, etc. and so don't feel like this is a case where I just don't know what I'm missing. The volumes of work I do are way too small to justify a real comparison test, basically it's hobby stuff, but pros probably aren't going to be taking router bit advice on HN anyway...


Add a Jasper circle jig to your plunge router and you'll have a hard time finding a better solution to cutting arbitrary sized holes in sheet goods




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