But when gemelli disappeared for several months I was distraught. Nothing is better in mac'n'cheese.

I make it in a cake pan, less than an inch deep, with sourdough cubes and grated cheese on top, toasted to a crisp. The mac really is just there to hold up the cheese toast. But that doesn't stop me from putting in chopped chili peppers (not too much, 2 oz is plenty!), nutmeg, and a hint of cayenne.

Strozzapreti can substitute for gemelli, but it is even harder to find any of.